Journal

An argument for the aperitivo hour and the art of eating a little, drinking a little, and stopping before you should.

There is a particular pleasure in opening a good bottle with no occasion to justify it. Chablis, I have found, is best understood in solitude.

They are too salty, too pungent, and completely indispensable.

What the natural wine conversation gets wrong, and what it quietly gets right.

The term has no legal definition and means something different to everyone who uses it. That might be the point.

A defense of the solitary glass, the quiet bar stool, and the meal that needs no company.