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Journal
✦What to Drink With Nothing
Mar 22, 2026An argument for the aperitivo hour and the art of eating a little, drinking a little, and stopping before you should.
✦On Drinking Chablis Alone
Mar 15, 2026There is a particular pleasure in opening a good bottle with no occasion to justify it. Chablis, I have found, is best understood in solitude.
✦The Case for Anchovies
Mar 15, 2026They are too salty, too pungent, and completely indispensable.
✦Notes on Natural Wine
Mar 1, 2026What the natural wine conversation gets wrong, and what it quietly gets right.
✦What Actually Makes a Wine Natural
Mar 1, 2026The term has no legal definition and means something different to everyone who uses it. That might be the point.
✦On Drinking Alone
Feb 14, 2026A defense of the solitary glass, the quiet bar stool, and the meal that needs no company.